The inside of a home is where you do most of your living. As such, it’s important to take time to select the right interior stains and finishes for your log and timber home. You will achieve an interior that is visually pleasing and performs well for years when a proper stain is chosen.

Two Traits

When it comes to interior finishes, there are two phenomena that homeowners tend to overlook.

1. Surprising surface area. Interior walls and ceilings dramatically increase the amount of surface area that requires treatment. Generally there is about twice as much stainable surface on the interior than the exterior. You’ll be looking at the results of your interior stain for years to come throughout your entire home, so choose wisely.

2. Choices, choices, and more choices! During a new build, homeowners are faced with hundreds of decision points along the way, often with details unfamiliar to them. It’s common for homeowners to ask the general contractor (GC) for advice. Many GCs typically recommend a “safe” off-white color, but that doesn’t always translate well with the natural logs in a cabin. A GC wants to stay on schedule, but selecting your interior stain takes a little time. You can’t easily undo stain.

What’s Your Color?

To make the best choice for your log home’s interior stain, think about how you spend time inside your home and the feeling you want to create. Does the space have abundant, natural light? Do you prefer cozy dark walls and a lighter ceiling? Or a bright, fresh feel with lighter walls? Another consideration is that wood absorbs light, so a darker stain may translate into a much darker room than you anticipated.

Then there is the tint base - do you prefer browns, reds, gray tones, or even a bleached look? Like many home designs, wood stain “looks” go through trends. Explore your options and be sure to choose a tint that will look beautiful to you over time. You can always darken a lighter stain, but not the reverse.

Distinct Needs

Not all interior wood is the same. Logs and heavy timbers are not like the wood of cabinets, moldings, and furniture. These smaller wood products are usually sprayed with nitrocellulose lacquer to protect them through a hard, shiny finish. Unlike cabinets, tables and trim, larger timbers and logs are more dynamic. If you try and put a similar lacquer on your interior log walls, the finish will crack and peel as these larger pieces of wood naturally contract and expand. A specialized finish for logs will ensure the interior looks the best for years to come.

Some homeowners wonder if the interior can go "au naturel" and keep the wood plain with no stain or topcoat. While interior logs may not be subjected to the same elements as their external counterparts, unfinished logs and timbers will absorb cooking oil and odors and collect dust, handprints, and water stains if not protected. Have you ever run your hand across rough-cut wood? The roughness of the wood is not very pleasant to feel. All those little crags and jags on the surface need to be covered in a light film; one that’s strong enough to be wiped down and protect the wood while remaining flexible enough to not crack as the log expands, shifts, and contracts over time.

Choose a stain that’s designed for the demands of a log home interior. Exterior stains contain higher levels of biocides and preservatives that you don’t need or want inside your home, especially where you’re eating and sleeping. This is also why you want to avoid an oil-based stain. Oil-based products have high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are extremely unhealthy in enclosed spaces. 

Smart & Attractive

Start with a stain that gives you the aesthetic and exact level of transparency you desire. Here at Perma-Chink Systems, we recommend using one of our Lifeline Interior stains, which come in a wide array of tones, including clear. After staining, add one or two clear coats of interior finish; Lifeline Acrylic or Sure Shine, a water-based poly finish. Both add enough film to protect your logs and minimize the roughness of logs so they can be easily wiped and cleaned. Lifeline Acrylic and Sure Shine come in gloss or satin. Sure Shine is strong enough to withstand foot traffic, and an excellent alternative to wood floors than smelly and caustic oil-based floor coatings.

These stains also contain the right amount of UV protection to avoid “picture framing.” Picture framing is the shadowy discoloration that remains on the wall when you move a bookshelf or a picture. After all, your stain should let you redecorate your log home whenever you want! Perma-Chink interior stains and finishes will ensure that the inside of your log home is just as breathtaking and gorgeous as the outside.

To order free color samples, visit our online store here or call us to discuss custom colors at 1-800-548-3554..

What’s the Difference Between Caulking and Log Chinking?

High-quality sealants help older cabins last for generations and give newer ones the rustic good looks many desire. Our sealants provide protection that will let them carry their historic styles far into the future. But when it comes to the language surrounding the sealant between logs, many people call chinking “log caulk.” Log caulk and log chinking are often used interchangeably, but these sealants are completely different. In fact, you should never, ever caulk a log home.

Guest post by Seth Murphy, papadiy.com

A home is more than just a shelter; it serves as our intimate sanctuary. The atmosphere within its walls profoundly influences our emotions, efficiency, and overall well-being. Central to cultivating a calm home atmosphere is the principle of tidiness.

Through consistent cleanliness and organization, we carve out a peaceful niche that rejuvenates our soul. By embracing straightforward daily practices, our living spaces can evolve into serene havens. In this article, which is shared courtesy of Perma-Chink Systems, we will explore straightforward routines that offer both a structured environment and mental clarity.

In loving memory of our late president Rich Dunstan.

In The Beginning

In 1980 my neighbor told me about building a log home in Eastern Washington. He said that he loved the home and the lifestyle but was disappointed wind constantly blew and cold, harsh winters meant there was no real effective way to seal the gaps between the logs. The house leaked air and heat and wind-driven rain came right through the walls.

He tried various caulking materials with little success. Caulking around a bathtub or sink was significantly different from ‘caulking’ literally miles of seams between logs in a log house.  After a number of conversations and experiments, we discovered there was no readily available product that could seal the gaps, look like authentic chinking, and last more than a few months.

After months of trial and error it became apparent that if we were going to design a material that would be acceptable to our criteria, we would have to design it ourselves.

The product we were designing was to be a replacement for what was known in the Log Home Industry as “chinking” – the sealant that historically provided the seal between the logs.  A chink is a gap – as in Biblical Times, “A chink in his armor’. Therefore, chinking is a material to fill a gap. Throughout the centuries of constructing dwellings out of logs, numerous methods were used to seal in between them. Early builders used pretty much anything they could get their hands on to seal the gaps – mud, straw and mud, cow manure, or mixtures of cement and mortar.